Chapter 7even: The Cézanne Route

The Cézanne Route

The Cézanne Route was recommended to us by Jean, our stellar host at his Chambres d'Hôtes. This day trip was just what we were looking for - an exploration of the local geography, feeling some of the painter's vibes, connecting with previous visits to this region, and ending the day with a great meal in old Aix.

In this blog chapter, I will jump around a little, because I was so taken by the majesty of the Massif de Sainte Victoire, the mountain range in which this peak is so dominant. 

This is the usual view of Mt Sainte Victoire, and as painted, perhaps made famous, by Paul Cézanne.We are looking more or less south,  toward Marseilles, about two or three hours drive. 

(my capture of this natural monument is rather over-processed, but I had to do this so you, the reader, could see it clearly through the natural haze of the day)

There is a cross at the peak, very difficult to see from this distance with the naked eye.

We circumnavigated the lower reaches of the massif on a variety of twisting, tertiary roads. This 60 kilometre loop starting from the west and back again took us past Vauvenargues, Picasso's final resting place, and through several small towns that seem to pop out of nowhere, connected by hairpin roads, and fields of vineyards.

Below, we are looking north, having driven about two thirds of the circle. At the base of the rock wall is a narrow verdant plateau;  below that is a large boulder field, then vineyard. Can you see the man in the green hat working on his vines?

Some of the southeastern slope is rich with red earth.

The entire massif is networked with walking and hiking trails. 

The French are to be congratulated for the accessibility offered to able-bodied walkers and nature enthusiasts all over France.

Further west now, our road climbs higher. In the distance, up to the left, we can just make out the cross that we saw on the peak when we started our trip (photo 1). Okay, you don't see it ...

Now?

In the original photo, of much higher resolution, I can see two hikers sitting on the cement base of the cross.

We had actually started our trip at the Bimont Dam near Aix. Its purpose is partly for flood control and minor hydroelectric power, but mostly to provide irrigation for the vast wine-producing and other agricultural lands extending from Aix-en-Provence, south to Marseilles. The dam was put into service in 1952, one of the many projects that was funded by the post-war Marshall Plan.

Finally, because we are in wine country we must buy wine.

We stopped for lunch at Sainte Maximine de la Baume (where Mary Magdalene's mummified head is on display in the cathedral), then at the Cave Dubaou for a refuel of sorts. 

The marvelous ceramic in the photo is on the outside wall of the wine cellar/seller. The tiles are a work of art. 





We purchased only the best on offer, also the highest priced, Cotes de Rhone AOP at 3.60 euros per litre - about $5 Canadian.

As can be seen in the photo (far left, detached hose) the wine filling station had run dry of this, the most popular amongst the locals, so we were compelled to buy in bulk - a bag-in-a-box, as the French call the bladder of wine in a cardboard box with a perfect spigot. 

It was only available in a five litre size. Oh well ... C'est la vie.










A late afternoon espresso at the town of le Tholonet ends our road trip, then back to our comfortable rooms at La Ferme near Saint-Marc Jaumegarde for a much needed rest.

We wrapped up this very special day with a dinner in Aix-en-Provence at Bistrot des Philosophes, another great suggestion by Jean and his wife, Carol. For readers who find themselves in Aix at the dinner hour, looking for very good food, reasonably priced, super friendly husband and wife owner/servers, you will find this cozy restaurant at 20 Place des Cardeurs.

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