Ch 17teen: MAPS

The MAPS for France Once Again

 A travel blog without maps? Here they are now, a little late perhaps, but for the audience that is still with me, some Google Maps screen shots that pretty much cover our round trip journey that began with a flight to  Paris on March 1st,  then back to Paris by car on the first day of May.

 5,200 kilometres in the comfortable, trouble-free Peugeot 308 

March 1 Vancouver to Paris, connecting flight to Nice

Please ignore the clutter of road numbers and driving distance labels. 

March 4 - 11 (by train)  Nice - Menton - Ventimiglia - Nice 

We picked up our car in Nice for the fifty-four day journey to Paris.

April 15 - 17: Hauts de Vaugrenier - Montpellier

April 17 - 20  Montpelier - Toulouse - Condom - Biarritz

April 20 - 25   Biarritz - San Sebastian - Bordeaux - Pugnac - Segonzac

April 25 - 27  Segonzac - Brouage - La Rochelle - Carnac

April 27 - 30   Carnac - Crozon - Saint-Pol-de-Léon - Roscoff -Dinan

April 30 - May 1  Saint-Pierre-de-Plesguen - Étretat
 - Ganzeville

May 1  Ganzeville, Normandy - Paris

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Chapter 7even: The Cézanne Route

The Cézanne Route

The Cézanne Route was recommended to us by Jean, our stellar host at his Chambres d'Hôtes. This day trip was just what we were looking for - an exploration of the local geography, feeling some of the painter's vibes, connecting with previous visits to this region, and ending the day with a great meal in old Aix.

In this blog chapter, I will jump around a little, because I was so taken by the majesty of the Massif de Sainte Victoire, the mountain range in which this peak is so dominant. 

This is the usual view of Mt Sainte Victoire, and as painted, perhaps made famous, by Paul Cézanne.We are looking more or less south,  toward Marseilles, about two or three hours drive. 

(my capture of this natural monument is rather over-processed, but I had to do this so you, the reader, could see it clearly through the natural haze of the day)

There is a cross at the peak, very difficult to see from this distance with the naked eye.

We circumnavigated the lower reaches of the massif on a variety of twisting, tertiary roads. This 60 kilometre loop starting from the west and back again took us past Vauvenargues, Picasso's final resting place, and through several small towns that seem to pop out of nowhere, connected by hairpin roads, and fields of vineyards.

Below, we are looking north, having driven about two thirds of the circle. At the base of the rock wall is a narrow verdant plateau;  below that is a large boulder field, then vineyard. Can you see the man in the green hat working on his vines?

Some of the southeastern slope is rich with red earth.

The entire massif is networked with walking and hiking trails. 

The French are to be congratulated for the accessibility offered to able-bodied walkers and nature enthusiasts all over France.

Further west now, our road climbs higher. In the distance, up to the left, we can just make out the cross that we saw on the peak when we started our trip (photo 1). Okay, you don't see it ...

Now?

In the original photo, of much higher resolution, I can see two hikers sitting on the cement base of the cross.

We had actually started our trip at the Bimont Dam near Aix. Its purpose is partly for flood control and minor hydroelectric power, but mostly to provide irrigation for the vast wine-producing and other agricultural lands extending from Aix-en-Provence, south to Marseilles. The dam was put into service in 1952, one of the many projects that was funded by the post-war Marshall Plan.

Finally, because we are in wine country we must buy wine.

We stopped for lunch at Sainte Maximine de la Baume (where Mary Magdalene's mummified head is on display in the cathedral), then at the Cave Dubaou for a refuel of sorts. 

The marvelous ceramic in the photo is on the outside wall of the wine cellar/seller. The tiles are a work of art. 





We purchased only the best on offer, also the highest priced, Cotes de Rhone AOP at 3.60 euros per litre - about $5 Canadian.

As can be seen in the photo (far left, detached hose) the wine filling station had run dry of this, the most popular amongst the locals, so we were compelled to buy in bulk - a bag-in-a-box, as the French call the bladder of wine in a cardboard box with a perfect spigot. 

It was only available in a five litre size. Oh well ... C'est la vie.










A late afternoon espresso at the town of le Tholonet ends our road trip, then back to our comfortable rooms at La Ferme near Saint-Marc Jaumegarde for a much needed rest.

We wrapped up this very special day with a dinner in Aix-en-Provence at Bistrot des Philosophes, another great suggestion by Jean and his wife, Carol. For readers who find themselves in Aix at the dinner hour, looking for very good food, reasonably priced, super friendly husband and wife owner/servers, you will find this cozy restaurant at 20 Place des Cardeurs.

For more travel and other photography visit my website 
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Fine Art America

Chapter 5ive: Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence

We left the Mediterranean, the most wondrous of seas, and headed north for a few weeks to our next destination: Aix-en-Provence, one of our very favourite cities in France.


Aix-en-Provence is a university town where young people are on the streets, day and night. This is such a pleasure to see after visiting so many small towns and cities, and medieval piles where the youth have left, and the mood is somber.

What makes Aix so special for us? Impossible to answer fully in the context of a blog, but we find that Aix is culturally, historically, artistically, academically, and geographically unique. 

It offers much to the curious French, and the foreign traveller, alike.

 

Aix is a place bustling with energy, a people- watching oasis.
















And if the visitor is attracted to France for its history, architecture, monuments and creative talent, then this is the place to satisfy those interests too.







19th Century social critic, writer Emile Zola, and his lifelong friend, post impressionistic painter Paul Cézanne are among the most famous sons of Aix. I highly recommend the film, Cézanne et Moi (2016). I think it is a must for anyone planning to visit Aix. I watched it on our Air France flight to Paris. 

It is nice and warm when we arrive in the city an hour or so before the Tuesday street market closes. 

Joanne is on a mission to find the Moroccan vendor of cheap, comfortable leather slippers. She had worn out her pair that she bought from him in 2009.

Voila! We find him right away. He is the same guy. He is not wearing his kaftan. He looks more like a Frenchman now in his western clothes. Joanne bought a brilliant red; I, camel colour. 

So far, this has been one of our best buys in France, to keep our feet warm on the cold stone floors of much of our accommodation.

We stayed for two nights at le Ferme, a terrific Gites, about a ten minute drive from the city. Our host, Jean, was welcoming, friendly, very articulate in English, informative about the area, and most interesting for us, an engaging commentator on global affairs and the French election. We were like sponges for information, having been away from world news during our trip.

Does the reader know what time the sundial, below, is showing?

--- 000O000 ---

I was desperate to stretch my legs after so much driving, and was in need of a nature walk, and some landscape photography time. Jean pointed me to the trail that led from his house through the forest, to one of the benches where Cézanne set up his easel to paint Mont Sainte Victoire in the late 1800's.

Alone, I followed an unwell-marked path through a late spring cedar and oak forest. Spooky though it was, I did not get lost.

Soon enough, post-impressionistic tree markings appeared. Anyone could decipher these, right? 

The late afternoon sun lit up the trail. With only my tripod to fend off truffle hunters and wild boars, I ambled on,


up ankle-breaking dry stream beds and rocky steps ...

et Voila! Mont Sainte-Victoire

Tomorrow we circumnavigate the Massif de la Sainte-Victoire, about a 60 km road trip around its base, 

with lots of stops to explore.

For more travel and other photography visit my website 
at

Fine Art America