Showing posts with label Fine Arts America. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fine Arts America. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 25, 2017

Chapter 10en: Montpellier Ma Belle

Montpellier ma Belle


Montpellier - what a nice surprise! We had bypassed this remarkable city on previous trips to France, always on our our way to other places nearby. 

l'Arc de Triomphe built in 17 C to honour King Louis 1V

We credit our friend, Pat for getting up our interest in Montpellier, where she recently did a home-stay for a wonderful French cooking and language experience. 



























Chateau d'Eau (above left) the water tower that connects the city's old aqueduct.





Wild and crazy architecture of the day (right) by Place de la Comédie.



We stayed two nights at La Merci, a Chambre d'Hôtes that we highly recommend, just steps away from the old city where we walked and walked, and I clicked and clicked away with my camera - day and night.






Caroline's garden at La Merci where we breakfasted and enjoyed our evenings' glass of wine.



Our room with the open shutters in the restored 18th Century building 

 
We thought that "down the hall" was an interesting way of describing the location of the WC and shower. Now that would be 8 steps down, 8 up, eight back down, and 8 back up again. Always be prepared for lots of stairs in the old world.








Lost in translation? folie douce: tender madness, sweet madness or is that sympathetic madness ... ?



I finally found the perfect sign for the Gemini guy who is never really alone, and who is sometimes deep in reflection. Uh, reverse that thought.


           
What goes on behind this closed door?

Like all old world cities, Montpellier must be seen at night. Our after-dinner strolls were magical. 



These nocturnal photos captured the mood for us - an ambience of glowing warmth.

Cathédral Saint-Pierre





Thank you, Pat for turning us on to Montpellier.






For more travel and other photography visit my website 
at





Sunday, April 2, 2017

Chapter 4our: Cassis

Cassis


Cassis is one of those postcard ports on the Mediterranean. It lies a little east of Marseilles, and west of Cannes. Cassis is on the eastern rim of the Bouche-du-Rhone, the large region that includes the vast Rhone River delta of the Camargue to the west. We will be driving northwest to Aix-en Provence, then up to the Châteauneuf du Pape region.


I shot this lighthouse at the entrance to the Cassis harbour.  If you were to expand the photo you would see Joanne's knees between the red pants and the little girl. I was taking names: I stopped Louis walking up the stairs, red-jacket Serge is walking w Marie-Noel & Mercredi, the little girl; couple to left, don't know, mama and babie to right, lovers seated waiting for sundown ...

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Hyères


Hyères was a brief stop on our way to Cassis where we stayed a night, then up early to visit a tiny fishing harbour. 
Check out the net mender's utility knife. It's an Opinel - the everyman knife of the I-always-gotta-have-a-knife-in-my-pocket Frenchman. 



Robert Louis Stevenson lived here in 1883/84.
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Cassis today is clearly a major tourist centre, but fishers are still busy, providing the many local restaurants and homes with fresh seafood. I ate from the sea here, and we touristed (is that a word?)

This is a very mountainous, hilly area on the coast where every square metre is used. Why? Because it is precious.

We always have a good Michelin map in the car, and we bring our GPS (TOMTOM) to Europe with up to date maps. Of course, the new Peugeot we are driving has a GPS in the dash. Our accommodation was so difficult to find, however, that we had them both going at once - female voices for clarity.

I have a bad head cold, rhinitis at every turn, nose dripping. Those crazy French drivers are on my rear bumper, stressing me out, but they have their windshield wipers on because I'm constantly sneezing out my window.

We circled around and around several times, even with the multi-colour large scale local Tourist Information Office map. Finally, we located the maison.


    I felt like                
a three-eyed Mexican: eye eye eye!

That night, I had to replace a lot of body fluid with a litre of Côtés de Rhône vin rouge - un remède.




Cap Canaille as seen from our bedroom window through a long telephoto lens and cropped tight, is Europe's highest coastal cliff - 394 metres high.

view from the beach




I call the photo (above) the Quick Fix Bowsprit.



Dining in France is what a lot of people dream of. There are many examples of dining in France. We discovered some new ones. These three little cafe tables are slightly larger than the chair seats that your bum sits on. They are made for tiny espresso coffee cups, shot glasses of pernod or pastis and the omnipresent ashtray.

We ate dinner on the quay at a table maybe twice this size. Remember - space is at a premium in these towns and villages, and even in Paris. We rub elbows with our neighbours, maybe exchange a bon apetit with them, and say, au revoir when we leave, but the rest of our dining experience is occupied with the magic trick of eating with good manners while managing a plate of food each, bottle of wine and one of water, four glasses for same, two baskets of frites, pepper, salt, napkin, customary jar of mayo and ketchup sleeves, cumpulsory ashtray.

I asked my wife if this is why one never sees the French with their elbows on the table. There is no space available for even one elbow. I usually take some dinner droppings away on my shirt and pants. Only in Italy is it acceptable to bib oneself.



The magic hour under a  threatening sky is a  beacon to a photographer. I captured the moment and others like it, then we ambled back up the mountainside to our lodging for a while to rest our bones before a late dinner on the quay, some of which was just described.

It seems that I am driven to try every kind of seafood available on the French coast. I ordered dourade/sea bream. I am always asked by the server if I want it de-boned but, mais non, madame/monsieur, je suis Norvégien/I'm Norwegian (I lie). I can do it myself. I leave behind a perfect Sylvester-the-cat fish head, bones and tail, still intact on the plate. Sorry, no photo.

Joanne is frequently plagued by drifting cigarette smoke around our table, I, by the voices of Gerard Depardieu at all of the other tables.

Funny about some of these meals. If you do not order a side salad you will not always be served vegetables. I needed greens. When my plate was taken away late that night in the dark, it was empty. I left nothing on it - no garnish, no lemon rind, no crustacean shells.


My camera is always with me, including a tripod attached to the small backpack. I used the sticks to capture this dark street scene before we headed up that way in search of our car, so we could get home to bed after a full-some day.



On day two, we touristed (that word again) with a boat trip to the  calanques. These are the other-world, weather-beaten limestone cliffs and bays of the Massif des Calanques  that line the Côte Bleue from Cassis to Marseilles. 

this rock was quarried for the Suez Canal and various ports

My bad for not taking the time to offer more information about the  calanques in the blog. But I gotta move on. I am falling way behind on where we are on this trip. Here are some images:




quotation lifted from a tourist brochure of the area:

 ... a landscape of visual shocks and opera of chalk tormented by the magic 
of thousands of years of geologic activity.




see the face on the wall?
skullface

le Parc National des Calanques








"Nice stone, but I'm just not into those kind of rocks," she said.







For more travel and other photography visit my website 
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Thursday, March 30, 2017

Chapter 3hree: Menton and the Macabre

Vieux Ville - Menton


There are basically two ways to get up to the Basilica St Michel above town: 

a) by the half dozen flights of stairs from the street at the old port, or 
b) through the ancient meandering alleys that you enter from the sea level pietons (pedestrian-only streets), and small squares. 





We have done both, and I recommend the tiered stairs - far more interesting. In the hot summer though, you may want to use the shadier streets.




Much of the old city of Menton is in need of an upgrade - everything from a simple power-washing to a more costly plastering and repainting.









Is that a flying spirit on the wall behind the lantern? 

Or, the map of Africa behind Joanne?


(more on spirits below)





There is a day care/child-minding centre at the basilica square. I feel these little ones look so glum, so sad, wanting to go out and play, to go fishing, perhaps, but alas, they are behind bars ...





At the top of the hill, above the church steeples, lies the Cimetière de Vieux Château, commanding a magnificent view of the city and the sea. Old European cities often reserve the best real estate for the necropolis.

Why is that?

So the spirits of the dead can overlook the living from up on high.


Wandering around the cemetery was a rather macabre experience.


This is not a headless spirit (above). I ventured a little closer and found it to be a gown draped over a Greek or Roman column. Somewhat freaky at first. Then a sudden waft of cold air blew across my shoulders at my back. I quickly turned, and somehow my camera recorded a fleeting movement of a haunting presence - black, weightless, and floating, then disappearing behind a large tomb.





Lost in translation. We got the heck out of the cemetery, snaking our way down into town, in search of a yoga mat. For about fifteen years now I have been keeping myself out of the Chiropractor's office with a pre-breakfast stretching routine. I usually use a thin, roll-up yoga mat, and vowed to buy one in France as soon as I could. The small store we went into surely sold such a common item, but I was mistaken. Worse, I caused some trouble trying to explain what I wanted. The staff clearly did not speak English. I got confused with my French. Grasping for words, I meant to say excercise but instead said excorcisme.

Big-eyed, the cashier and a sales guy on the shop floor backed away from me, crossed their fingers in front of their face, and Joanne hissed in frustration. Quite flustered, I said, à demain, à bientôt. My choice of departing words did not seem to change their composure. We left the store.



It's Friday, so a short train ride to just across the border into Italy -to Ventimiglia's large outdoor market where a wide variety of products are available for sale - edible, drinkable, and wearable.





(photo left) wingless, limbless green birds that resemble pears

truffles

Now, one cannot go to Italy without buying a pair of shoes there. The Italians make the best. The ones in the picture (below) were hand made in Florence.

Question: 
Which pair did I buy?



Answer: 
To be revealed in a pre-dinner pose in a future posting in this blog


Dinner Recommendation: Maison Martin & Fils, Rue des Martins

It is time to leave Menton, pick up our car in Nice, drive very slowly west along the Med, then a little north to our next two-week stay in the Luberon: in Vaison-la-Romaine.




For more travel and other photography visit my website