Saturday, July 8, 2017

Chapter 23ree: Snapshot of Norway


We arrived in Paris on May 1, and I will get there with this blog, but Norway has always been on the itinerary of this great adventure—a short 9-day getaway from Paris to visit some Karlsen relatives. 


We flew into Stavanger a couple of days ago, and the excitement of being here makes me want to share a some of the experience.



Why Norway? 
Well, my father was at sea when Germany invaded and occupied Norway in 1940. Some months later he was training at a Norwegian Air Force base in Toronto. 








To make a long story short, he married a Canadian girl. They had a few children, I was one of them, and I have been drawn back to the ancestral roots several times.



I recommend a visit to this very special country.

One of my many cousins picked us up at the airport and took us to his home where we quickly settled in. I had forgotten that in the summer here, darkness comes at about fifteen minutes before midnight, and daylight, at 4 am!


Day One: Grocery Shopping

I have sprinkled my blog chapters with lots of French words. I do speak some French, but I also speak some Norwegian, so it is only fair to my readers that I throw some Norwegian words into this chapter.


MEAT pronounced, tshutt
heard with an inattentive English ear, the word sounds like shit, but it isn't
 POTATOES pronounced, potetterrrr


SMOKED SALMON pronounced, roooket lax

also 

Kjøttboller  = Meatballs pronounced tshutt-ballerrrr

Brød = Bread pronounced, brood

Brun ost = Brown goat cheese pronounced, brooon oast

All of these are staples of the Norwegian diet.
The vast majority of non-Norwegian speaking people, which may be 99% of the human race, will have no interest in, or need for these words ... But, I do love the language.


Day Two: A Hike up to Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock)



waiting for the ferry, Port of Stavanger



About a 40-minute ride on the car ferry, Hardanger, to the town of Tau, a drive through the town of Jorpeland, and then up to the Preikestolen car park.






the old base camp where my aunt worked during the occupation in the 1940s




Above, is the route map at base camp. Including distance and vertical feet, I make the hike to be about 6.5 km one way.
The route is well-maintained with some flat or gradual terrain, river rocks and rough stones. Some of these are very large. Sherpas have been hired to make the path very accessible with the construction of stone steps. The steps make the hike accessible to the non-hiker with good shoes, but the run-rise ratio is inconsistent—suitable for both short-legged trolls and for giant trolls.




Joanne and my cousin, Arne Geir, stopped for the camera, still fresh and full of energy after only about 500 metres into the hike.


boardwalk over the marshlands















 "Only 4.5 km to go. We start climbing now," said Arne Geir in near-perfect English.





























Elevation change on this hike was significant for Joanne and I who are really not wilderness hikers. 

(See details on the graphic above)




I had done this walk about eight years ago. It seemed so much shorter and easier then. 

As we neared the summit, I told Joanne that just around the bend ... that would be the last one, and then she would see the majestic plateau of Pulpit Rock.

 


The years had blurred my memory somewhat so there was some fatigue and some angst, but slow walking and lots of stops to rest helped. 

Small high-elevation ponds and lakes were eye candy.





































Small lakes and ponds filled large cavities in the upper landscape. Off in the distance, brush and small (by Western Canada standards) coniferous trees carpeted the rocky surfaces.















Finally, the fjord revealed itself—the stunning Lysefjord, a 44-kilometre inlet of blue water.

The sight was breathtaking!















But we had still not reached Preikestolen. There were more laborious steps up and over more rocks, and then across some hanging cliffside timber walkways.




A lone yellow wildflower beckoned us onward.

No worries. One does not have to get close to the edge.



And there it was: PREIKESTOLEN
 The Pulpit. 
Like one giant jagged tooth hanging over the fjord.






Some brave, or maybe slightly crazy people, walk up to the edge and sit there with their feet hanging over a sheer drop, 604 metres, almost 2,000 feet, to the fjord below. Not us. Far too scary. When I was 19 years old I lay flat on the surface to peer down. There is enough updraft of wind flying up the cliff to make your eyes water.











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Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Chapter 22wo: Normandy

Normandy

Étretat, on the north coast of Normandy, was our final destination of this big road trip before settling into Paris for two months —the second half of France Once Again. 

We crossed over the Le Havre Pont de Normandie, a large cable-stay bridge that spans the wide mouth of the Seine River where it meets the English Channel. Honfleur? Sorry to say, wby-passed it, and we also had to ignore the road signs to Rouen, Dieppe and other great centres in Normandy. They will not be a part of this Grand Voyage.










Narrow secondary and tertiary roads took us through small villages and farm fields, all aglow with crops of rapeseed.



Day after tomorrow—May 1—our car has to be turned in, in Paris. Sadly, we have left only one day for Normandy. 


We have seen and experienced a lot of France since we arrived on the first day of March.  In some places we stayed for weeks at a time; in others, we stopped for a few days, and in  places. We loved all of it.



Étretat Golf Club
Standing beside Joanne is a wonderful woman named Annick

Annick is shorter than Joanne but larger than life itself. She took us in, she shared her home with us, a warm dinner and breakfast. And, of course, she shared her husband, John (Jean)

Jean and I traded stories of the sea. Like me as a younger man, he worked in the sea trade. I was crew (who among you readers knows this?) and Jean, supplying the ships as a supercargo.


More about sea stories soon: maybe while the blog is still on the coast of France before we head inland to Paris.


Let's go back for a moment to Biarritz (Ch 13). When we were there, Anne-Sophie asked us what our plans were for Normandy before going to Paris. We said we had intended to reserve a place in Étretat, but had not yet got around to it.

"That's my home town, where I'm from," she said. "My parents live near there. My mother helps international student home stays in the area, and rents out a little house in the back garden from April through September. Maybe she has a room available."

A call was placed to mom, but she was all booked up. Daughter lobbied with mother, and we were offered a bedroom in her house, on the top floor. This was Anne-Sophie's room when she lived with her parents. We were delighted. We were honoured.

Our new friend, with a very big heart, was waiting for our arrival. So, we began our last day, not as strangers taken in, but with a big embrace and smiling eyes. Joanne and I talk from time to time over a glass of wine about how alike the greetings were by both daughter and mother.

view from our table to the #10 T-Box

Annick happens to be a member of the Étretat Golf Club. Our tour of the old city began from there, with a glass of Normandy cider at the 19th Hole. From the window of the clubhouse we overlooked a nerve jangling drive.




waiting to T-off from #1, on the left



The Étretat Golf Course is one of the most picturesque in France












Étretat is a very popular destination in Normandy. It happened to be a long weekend in France so parking was hopeless. Annick left her car at the Golf Club and she guided us down into the city from there.



First through the woods, then along a hedgerow and on down into the old city.





Few people enter the town this way.






Once again, we were spared by the weather. It had been raining before and after our outing, but not a drop fell from the sky during our excursion.








Normandy has its share of Medieval half-timbered buildings, but here they are maintained well, and are situated in open airy quarters of the city.






the Porte d'Aval arch


Stand on the beach. Look to the left, the northwest, where you will see the Porte d'Aval. You can walk under it at low tide.




To your right is the northwestern arch, Porte d'Amont.  Zoom in and  you will see that the beach runs right up to the cliff wall. 

A little research revealed that these arches were originally formed by underground rivers. The sea has done the rest.


The limestone cliffs and arches are very accessible. If only we had planned our time better ...




There are many more cliffs, arches, and rock formations on the other side of this one. While I was excited about what I saw, there is so much more on the other side. I highly recommend to readers who are nature lovers, make an excursion to this part of France. Plan it well and take time to explore. If you are a visual artist, bring your creative tools - Claude Monet did, along with other Impressionist artists, Eugène Boudin,  Gustave Courbet ...


Take a look at my photo above with the boat on the shingle beach. Now do an online search for Claude Monet paintings at Etretat and browse his amazing number of paintings to see the different ways he saw this place. One of Monet's original works that looks just like mine - hah - is on display in the Musée D'Orsay.





On our way back to her house for dinner, Annick drove us through the nearby port city of Fécamp, stopping at a majestic old brick building. This is the Palais Béntédictine. Yes,
Benedictine liqueur. It is not my favourite drink, but its story is very interesting. If one needs another reason to visit this region of Normandy, consider putting this historic institution on your list.


Annick, John, et Anne-Sophie, merci beaucoup. Joanne, my occasional editor, has reminded me that you celebrated our arrival with the sharing of a chilled bottle of champagne. Moi, I cannot imagine a more comforting way of spending the last night of our grand voyage



...ooo0ooo...


So ends a personal review of a spectacular two months in France - March and April, 2017. Not all has been revealed, of course, but we have shared some highlights.

Google Blogger tells me that as of this posting, there have been 3,400 people checking in for a read. (though I suspect that some of these numbers are "crawlers" - not real people, but robots). 

Thank you all for following along.

If I can say that this has been Part One, then the City of Light will be Part Two. Paris, however, will not get the amount of space that I have used in these twenty-two chapters. 

a bientot!















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Wednesday, June 21, 2017

Chapter 21one: A Magic Brittany Forest

A Magic Brittany Forest


I am not an historian, just a curious man. Two nights here at La Grande Sauvagère had me asking myself, who was here before us, what were they thinking and doing?

rusty manual fuel pump at ruins of old garage, lost in the woods, date unknown


READER CAUTION: To some, the following text may be irrelevant and boring. To others, it may be thin, unsubstantiated armchair history. But if you are a keen reader, it might just keep you on my shoulder for a while longer, where you will get another glimpse of where my thoughts and my camera were during these travels. If you are the latter, then read on.


Frederique, proprietor and our host during our stay, noticed my interest in her property and she pulled out some old documents of La Grande Sauvagère. They were written in French, of course, but I was able to muddle through them. Much of what I've posted in this blog comes from that primary source material. The earliest records for the property go back to 1513 (when Henry VIII invaded France).

flour mill and bakery


Changes in seigneurial ownership have been well documented. For centuries this property was owned and farmed by the landed gentry, not nobility, rather, Lords and Ladies of the manor.






These bigwigs had special property ownership rights with taxes and fees paid to them by the commoners. After the French Revolution (1789) this feudal system was abolished. 

mill screw and ear














There is mention of a chapel on the ancient Sauvagère property. 
The chapel is long since gone, but was reckoned to date back to the Carolingian Period, you know, the two centuries which ended in 814 AD with the death of Charlemagne, first Christian king.

Pope Leo lll gave him that job.


note the holes in the barn wall just below the roof
the barn also served as a pigeonier—a dovecoat























Why the odd name, Sauvagère?  What is its etymology? Well, one can imagine a wilderness forest here, in what is now called Brittany, more than a millennium ago. Surely, with savage beasts too … 


hayloft?

Frederique’s legacy document lists the property owners from the Middle Ages, almost up to the present. It mentions Lord Rolland Geffroy in 1542 (death of James V), during the time of the Protestant Reformation. France was not a friend of England in those days, but Scotland and France were friendly allies. 






One will find that the surname “Geffroy”, and its numerous variations, appear in both French and Scottish archives.

sheds connecting barn and part of exterior manor wall


So, globally—and remember, the globe was small in those days—what was the nature of the known world ...


at La Petite and La Grande Sauvagère, about 500 years ago when there was no wifi in front of the giant hearth, and no internal combustion engine to power the four wheels outside these stone walls.















Here is a timeline I dug up from 
https://www.timeshighereducation.com





EVENTS

1504 Leonardo paints Mona Lisa
1506 St Peter's basilica begun in Rome
1509 Michelangelo takes 3 years to paint ceiling of Sistine Chapel
1513 first records of La Grande & La Petite Sauvagère
1517 Martin Luther defies the pope with Wittenberg theses
1522 Ferdinand Magellan sails around the world
1531 Henry VIII breaks with Rome
1540 Jesuits are founded
1542 Sir Rolland Geffroy acquires Sauvagère property
1545 RC Council of Trent opposes Protestant Reformation
1553 Mary Tudor becomes Queen of England
1555 Peace of Augsburg settles Protestant-Catholic conflicts
1558 Elizabeth I becomes Queen
1588 Defeat of the Spanish Armada
1599 First known production at Globe Theatre is Shakespeare's Julius Caesar





IDEAS

1516 Erasmus edits Greek New Testament
1522 Luther translates Bible into German
1532 Italian political theorist Machiavelli writes The Prince
1543 Copernicus founds modern astronomy
1564 William Shakespeare is born
1571 Galileo Galilei is born




One thing we do know for sure. 
The sun still rises and falls on the forest here. 
It is by no means savage.
It is magical.










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